A Guide to Boat Deck Light Installation

As you’re getting ready to install your deck lights, make sure to check these items off your shopping list:

• Boat Deck Lights: Depending on your preferences and the boat’s configuration, choose from marine-grade flood lights, compact LED pods, or spotlights with an optional diffusing lens for increased versatility.
• AC Adapter (if applicable): If installing LED boat lights—a DC technology—on AC power (when running a generator, for example), you’ll need to pick up an AC adapter for proper operation. Before you begin, take the time to distinguish between AC and DC power on your boat if you haven’t already. Otherwise, you risk blowing up your light if you connect a DC light to AC power.
• Cables: Marine-grade electrical cables resist UV and saltwater corrosion while remaining waterproof and flexible in harsh marine environments. Select cables with a high voltage rating (600 to 1000V) to allow for a margin of performance degradation over time without impacting light output. For extra protection, you should consider cables with a submersible jacket rating.
• Wire Connectors: Ensure inline wire connectors are waterproof and rated to at least IP 67 standards, as well as the temperature range your boat will be exposed to throughout the year. Modern connector designs are superior to conventional heat shrink connectors. Automotive-grade connectors like the popular Deutsch connector aren’t designed for extended exposure in marine environments. Modern IP 68 waterproof inline connectors require no tools for installation, significantly reducing the chances of user error and water ingress due to over-crimped heat shrink connectors that lead to cracks or exposed cable jackets. It’s important to note that waterproofing is not just required for the conductor but over the entire cable-to-cable splice so the cable jacket needs to be properly protected as well.
• Heat Shrink Tubing: Heat shrink tubes provide a layer of mechanical protection and securement when wiring connections. However, they need to be sized appropriately (both in diameter and in length) to maximize the mechanical stability of the splice. The tube should be just large enough to slide over the wires you are joining. If it’s too loose, the shrink ratio may not be sufficient to provide a tight fit after you apply heat to shrink it. Note that heat shrink tubing is designed to protect round objects rather than profiled edges. Be mindful of the shape of wire connections and connectors before you shrink the tubing. Non-circular shapes can create gaps between the heat-shrink tubing seal, leading to immediate water ingress. Make sure to select double-wall heat shrink tubing. Single-wall tubing has no adhesive when sealed, so it’s unsuitable for long-term marine use. On the other hand, double-wall heat shrink tubing contains an adhesive that provides a more durable moisture barrier.
• Mounting Brackets and Screws/Bolts: Confirm light mounts are engineered for boat decks and support your particular lights with bolts sized appropriately for the bracket holes. 316 stainless steel provides the best protection against corrosion in marine environments for bolts in marine environments. For any hardware with a black finish, ensure it’s black oxide over stainless steel and not alloy steel. In any areas where galvanic corrosion is a concern, use nylon washers to separate the two metallic surfaces. Consult manufacturer specification sheets for specific measurements.
• Zip Ties and Cable Clamps: Secure cables to prevent snags or tripping hazards and add a stress-relief loop that protects connections from loosening if they are pulled or tugged on over time (more details below).