A Guide to Boat Deck Light Installation

Are you looking to illuminate your boat’s deck and take your experience on the water to the next level at night? Installing deck lights is a great way to add ambiance when relaxing around the dock while also improving safety and visibility when fishing or cruising around in the dark. With the right preparation, you can complete the project in less than a day. In this guide, we’ll shine a light on every aspect of the installation process so you know exactly what to expect before you begin.

Parts, Tools, and Materials Required for Boat Deck Light Installation

Equipping yourself with the right tools and parts is the first step toward a seamless boat deck light installation process. Let’s start with the essential items you’ll need to brighten up your deck.

Essential Parts for Installation

As you’re getting ready to install your deck lights, make sure to check these items off your shopping list:

Boat Deck Lights: Depending on your preferences and the boat’s configuration, choose from marine-grade flood lights, compact LED pods, or spotlights with an optional diffusing lens for increased versatility.
AC Adapter (if applicable): If installing LED boat lights—a DC technology—on AC power (when running a generator, for example), you’ll need to pick up an AC adapter for proper operation. Before you begin, take the time to distinguish between AC and DC power on your boat if you haven’t already. Otherwise, you risk blowing up your light if you connect a DC light to AC power.
Cables: Marine-grade electrical cables resist UV and saltwater corrosion while remaining waterproof and flexible in harsh marine environments. Select cables with a high voltage rating (600 to 1000V) to allow for a margin of performance degradation over time without impacting light output. For extra protection, you should consider cables with a submersible jacket rating.
Wire Connectors: Ensure inline wire connectors are waterproof and rated to at least IP 67 standards, as well as the temperature range your boat will be exposed to throughout the year. Modern connector designs are superior to conventional heat shrink connectors. Automotive-grade connectors like the popular Deutsch connector aren’t designed for extended exposure in marine environments. Modern IP 68 waterproof inline connectors require no tools for installation, significantly reducing the chances of user error and water ingress due to over-crimped heat shrink connectors that lead to cracks or exposed cable jackets. It’s important to note that waterproofing is not just required for the conductor but over the entire cable-to-cable splice so the cable jacket needs to be properly protected as well.
Heat Shrink Tubing: Heat shrink tubes provide a layer of mechanical protection and securement when wiring connections. However, they need to be sized appropriately (both in diameter and in length) to maximize the mechanical stability of the splice. The tube should be just large enough to slide over the wires you are joining. If it’s too loose, the shrink ratio may not be sufficient to provide a tight fit after you apply heat to shrink it. Note that heat shrink tubing is designed to protect round objects rather than profiled edges. Be mindful of the shape of wire connections and connectors before you shrink the tubing. Non-circular shapes can create gaps between the heat-shrink tubing seal, leading to immediate water ingress. Make sure to select double-wall heat shrink tubing. Single-wall tubing has no adhesive when sealed, so it’s unsuitable for long-term marine use. On the other hand, double-wall heat shrink tubing contains an adhesive that provides a more durable moisture barrier.
Mounting Brackets and Screws/Bolts: Confirm light mounts are engineered for boat decks and support your particular lights with bolts sized appropriately for the bracket holes. 316 stainless steel provides the best protection against corrosion in marine environments for bolts in marine environments. For any hardware with a black finish, ensure it’s black oxide over stainless steel and not alloy steel. In any areas where galvanic corrosion is a concern, use nylon washers to separate the two metallic surfaces. Consult manufacturer specification sheets for specific measurements.
Zip Ties and Cable Clamps: Secure cables to prevent snags or tripping hazards and add a stress-relief loop that protects connections from loosening if they are pulled or tugged on over time (more details below).

Essential Tools for Electrical Work on Boats

When you’re ready to install, here’s a checklist of essential tools you’ll also need:

Wire Stripper/Crimper
Screwdrivers
Drill and Drillbits
Voltmeter: To check voltage readings
Current Clamps: To check current readings
ESD Shoes (optional): For professional LED installers, ESD shoes have become essential in regions where temperatures and humidity drop significantly in the winter

With your toolbox and materials ready, we’re one step closer to a brilliantly lit deck that promises pleasure and safety.

Safety Precautions for Electrical Work on Boats

Anytime you’re performing electrical work on a watercraft, you need to be aware of the added risk due to the proximity of water and electricity. Understanding and adhering to safety precautions protects you and extends the longevity and reliability of your boat’s lighting system.

CAUTION FOR BOATERS: Just as on shore, 120V or 240V AC electrical circuits on boats can produce a harmful, even deadly, electrical shock if improperly installed. This hazard exists not only to persons on board the craft, but also to people swimming in the water in proximity to an improperly wired or inadequately maintained vessel. If you do not possess a good degree of technical competence in this area, it is suggested that you always employ a fully qualified marine electrician to accomplish major installations and repairs to your boat’s electrical system, especially the 120V or 240V AC circuits. – Chapman’s Piloting & Seamanship, 69th Edition. Page 669.

It’s best to get your boat out of the water before doing electrical work. Always disconnect the power source before beginning any electrical work on your boat. This prevents electrical shocks and unwanted short circuits. It’s a non-negotiable first step that sets the stage for a safe installation process.

Electrostatic Discharge Precautions

This topic is not talked about enough, but special considerations need to be made anytime you’re installing LEDs due to the possibility of electrostatic discharge (ESD). Unlike conventional analog lights (e.g., halogen, sodium, incandescent), LEDs are better understood as modern electronics engineered to output light. That means they’re susceptible to ESDs that could cause a boat’s lighting system to fail if proper precautions aren’t taken during installation.

First, ground yourself before touching any wires. To confirm you’re grounded prior to installation, touch a pole or another metallic object attached to the structure of the boat or boat ground. This is particularly important during winter when lower humidity (<30% RH) levels make it easier for static electricity to build up on your body and in the environment. For an extra layer of protection, you can also consider using a ground strap, heel strap, or ESD shoes to prevent ESDs from zapping the integrated circuits in LEDS when touching wires.

After gathering the necessary items and taking the above safety precautions, you’re ready to start the installation process.

A Step-by-Step Boat Deck Light Installation Guide

Before you begin mounting lights and connecting wires, keep in mind that marine environments are much more demanding than those faced by your home or vehicle due to harsh sunlight and corrosive salt. Take these extremes into account at every step of installation, particularly when installing brackets and connecting wires. Just because something worked for your home or truck doesn’t mean it will stand the test of time on your boat.

1. Mounting the Lights

Start by marking the spots on the deck where each light will be installed.
Drill the necessary holes carefully, using the template provided for your mount, making sure not to damage any underlying structure. Confirm that drillbits are specifically designed for fiberglass composites, as standard bits may crack the fiberglass’s gel coating. Always drill a pilot hole first before drilling the final hole. This helps keep the final hole centered while also reducing stress on the material you’re drilling and the drillbit itself.
Fit the mounting bracket or plate for each light in the drilled holes, following the manufacturer’s instructions.
Secure the lights onto the mounting hardware, ensuring they are snug and properly aligned. Use nylon washers to prevent metal-to-metal surface contact that could lead to galvanic corrosion or binding. If you may need to loosen the bolts from time to time to adjust the beam angle or ever plan to remove them for repurposing the fixture, apply marine-grade anti-seize rated for at least -40 °F (-40°C) to 212 °F (100°C) to the threads.

2. Wiring Connections for DC Power

You should only power LEDs directly using a DC power source. Most boats run either 12VDC (one battery) or 24VDC (two batteries in parallel). Some older boats may run 32VDC as well. Check with the light manufacturer, but since DuraBrite lights auto-detect DC voltage, you don’t have to do anything special to operate at any of these voltages.
Connect the positive wire on the light (white or red wire) to the positive wire running to the power source.
Connect the negative wire on the light (black wire) to the negative wire running to the power source.
If your light comes with a green ground wire, hook that up to the boat ground.
Use waterproof connectors to protect all wire connections, including the cable jacket, from water intrusion. This may require some planning, including the use of a waterproof junction box for proper wire routing and protection from the elements. A multi-port junction box may be required at times, especially when you need to split the cable to route power and other wires to different locations.
Test each light after it’s connected to confirm functionality before going out on the water.

Important Notes on Cable Length

If operating at 12VDC, you need to pay special attention when planning to run your cable longer than the supplied pigtail coming out of the light. The longer the run, the higher the electrical resistance, which will result in a lower input voltage (also known as a voltage drop) going to the light. As a result, you may experience flickering or other abnormalities when the input voltage drops close to the design threshold.
If you plan to run a long cable, it’s recommended that you first run the pigtail to a waterproof junction box near the light. Then, run the cable to your DC power source, which already has the voltage converted from 12VDC to 24VDC by means of a DC-DC boost converter.
If you plan to run cables longer than 30 feet, please contact the manufacturer for more specific recommendations. A good one can usually provide schematics and recommendations for proper relays and switches for a successful installation. They may even build custom-length pigtails for you.

3. Wiring Connections for AC Power

When installing LEDs on AC power, you must first purchase an AC adapter sized appropriately based on the wattage of each light before beginning the installation.
Connect the positive wire on the light (white or red wire) to the positive terminal on the adapter (the red wire on the output side of our adapters)
Connect the negative wire on the light (black wire) to the negative terminal on the adapter (the black wire on the output side of our adapters)
Connect the input side of the adapter according to the National Electrical Code or the equivalent for your country. Nowadays, adapters can usually be powered by either 110VAC or 220VAC.

4. Connecting Lights to the Power Source and Switches

Each light will have a positive and negative wire, and it’s vital to match these correctly with the corresponding wires from your power source.
Most boats have an integrated breaker panel, which allows you to connect switches on the dash to your lights. The breaker panel then serves as a fuse box.
Use marine-grade connectors to ensure solid connections that are also water-resistant.
Consider incorporating a service loop near connection points as a stress relief so that if cables get tugged on or pulled, the connection remains intact at all times.
Consistency is key when connecting your lights to the switches. Ensure each switch is wired and labeled the same way to avoid confusion and ensure ease of use when underway.
Are you having trouble finding a switch rated for more than 15 amps? You’ll need to install a relay to handle the power and then connect the relay to the switch. That way, the switch turns the relay on and off rather than the light directly. Reach out to the manufacturer for more specific recommendations.

Seal the Deal: Waterproofing and Corrosion Prevention for Boat Deck Lights

For your boat deck lights, you should strictly choose fixtures with marine-grade components. These are built to withstand the harsh marine environment and prevent corrosion, ensuring your lighting system is reliable and durable. After all, the last thing you want is a flickering deck light during a midnight cruise.

Guarding Against the Elements: Techniques for Protection

Water, salt, and oxygen are a notorious trio on boats, leading to corrosion and equipment failure. To safeguard your electrical connections and fixtures from water ingress:

Use marine-grade double-wall heat shrink tubing to insulate and pre-seal wire splices. (We recommend using heat shrink tubing only at locations where there is no chance of direct water contact.)
Consider using waterproof inline connectors or junction boxes where connections are exposed to the elements continuously.

Select Your Shield: Products for Corrosion Resistance

No skipper wants to watch their investment corrode before their eyes. That’s why selecting the right materials and products is crucial.

When possible, opt for 316 stainless steel or 464 naval brass fixtures for superior corrosion resistance.
Apply ceramic coatings to exposed metal surfaces as an insulative and hydrophobic layer.
Make sure all hardware used for installation is rated for marine environments.
Use nylon washers to prevent metal-to-metal contact that could lead to galvanic corrosion.

Choose DuraBrite’s Ceramax line of marine-grade Ultra Ceramic Coat for protection that’s up to four times thicker than other coatings on the market.

Explore Ceramic Coatings

Troubleshooting Common Issues with Boat Deck Lights

Even with the right preparation, you might run into some snags during the boat deck light installation process. But with a bit of knowledge, you can identify and fix common issues like a seasoned captain. Let’s anchor down some troubleshooting tips.

Identifying and Fixing Frequent Problems With Boat Deck Lights

No Light or Lights Cutting In and Out: Check for loose connections or damaged wires. Ensure all connections are secure and replace any faulty wiring. Look for any areas where wire sleeves may have been cut or damaged, exposing copper strands. Next, confirm that the breaker contacts are not corroded and that the inline fuse is still in good shape. Replace any components showing signs of damage or corrosion.
Dim Lights: Dim lights could indicate a low voltage supply (voltage drop). Verify that your power source delivers adequate voltage to the lights and that cable runs are not too long for the layout of your boat’s lighting system.
Flickering: Flickering—rapid, visible variation in light—may result from a dying or aged battery, causing a significant voltage drop as it struggles to supply a consistent current. This will require a battery replacement. A trick to get around replacing the battery is to install a DC-DC boost converter so it operates at a higher voltage (like 24VDC) rather than near the light’s voltage threshold. Another possible reason for flickering is moisture entering the luminaire. When electronics and the printed circuit board get wet, it will malfunction. To prevent water ingress, make sure all seals and gaskets are intact.
Blown Fuses: High-end lights may contain internal fuses as a last line of protection, but external inline fuses may need to be reset on occasion. Frequently blown fuses can mean an overload in the circuit. Check your light wattage and wiring specifications, then compare them against the fuse or breaker rating. You can also try to identify why spikes keep happening from your power source. Working with a licensed electrician is probably your best option when this occurs.

When to Seek Professional Help for Electrical Complications

If troubleshooting hasn’t resolved the issue or you encounter complex problems, such as short circuits or signs of electrical burning, it’s time to call in the experts. Electricity and water are a potentially perilous combination, so if you’re ever in doubt, consult a professional marine electrician to keep your vessel safe and seaworthy.

Tips on Maintaining Connections

Quality Materials: Use marine-grade materials for all electrical components to prevent premature wear and tear.
Clean Contacts: Keep electrical contacts clean and free of oxidation or corrosion to maintain a strong connection.
Routine Cleaning: Salt and dirt can accumulate quickly, so hose down your boat deck lights with fresh water as part of your regular maintenance routine.

Consider energy-efficient options like LED lights to save power and money in the long run. Investing in high-quality and durable boat deck lights is not just about compliance or functionality—it’s also about creating memorable and enjoyable nighttime experiences on the water.

Your boat is an extension of your lifestyle on the waves, and installing the right deck lighting will ensure that you can continue to enjoy your investment with safety and style for years to come.

Simplify Boat Deck Light Installation With DuraBrite

Why install two deck lights when you could install one? On top of providing you with the resources you need to simplify the boat deck light installation process, we’re also revolutionizing the industry with a best-in-class two-in-one boat deck light—the Nano DM Red Series. Switch between red light to preserve night vision and white light for maximum clarity and visibility, all with one compact unit. While red light is our recommendation for night activities on the water, we can customize a unit to switch between any color you want.

Explore the Nano Dual Mode